With the season of summer starting, we all from North India start looking for a pleasant weather hill station destination. And the first destination that comes to our mind is either Himachal or Uttarakhand. Recently, we have seen a rise in tourism in the cities like Nainital, Mussoorie, and Dehradun instead of tourists visiting the over-crowded cities like Manali, and Shimla.
Moreover, due to Kainchi dham, Mukteshwar Mahadev, and Golu temple (the bell temple) being religious hubs makes these places more enchanting for travellers to explore.
In this travelogue, I am going to share how I completed all these famous as well as off-beat nearby destinations in just 5 days and realistic budget (including luxurious stay). Whether you are planning a solo trip, a couple’s escape, or a family getaway, I have covered everything you can do and especially for girls what to pack to slay throughout your trip.
Day 1: How to Reach Captivating Mukteshwar Mahadev Mandir (Golu Devta Temple included)
In-budget Accommodation with Enchanting View
Before I start my first day, let me tell you how I started my trip from Delhi. My plan was instant so booking a train was not possible, but if you have time, train is your best and in-budget option for getting started.
For those who make on-the-spot plans like me, find a bus using Redbus, preferably GetBookCab buses only, these ones are a little expensive but they are actually worth it. On my way back I chose a bus from the International Tourist Center (from Redbus only), that bus was neither comfortable nor what I paid for.
The catch here is all these buses will drop you early in the morning in Kathgodam and offer a free local bus service till your destination (city bus stand). This was new and we hated the experience of unhygienic local buses. So, my recommendation is to pre-book a cab which will cost you ₹1500-₹2000 in peak season (may & june) and ₹600-₹1200 in other months.
After a little struggle and a lot of waiting we reached our amazing Cottage, known as Loggin Ky (booked via bnb), located on the outskirts of Bhowali. The best part: no unnecessary crowd even in peak season (max jam 30 minutes on the day news claimed local jam in Nainital is 3-4 hours, breathtaking views, in budget, and great staff). Even the caretaker offered to pick us up while we were stuck somewhere after our pre-booked cab never showed up.
Ps: Always catch up with the driver one day in advance and ask him if he is willing to take you as the agency promised.
Day 1 Starts
After you reach around 8-9 am, chill around for an hour enjoy the view, relaxing, and have something but don’t opt for breakfast as on the way to Mukteshwar Mahadev, there is a place known as The Pahadi Cafe serving the most authentic food with the view you will never want to go back from. (If you leave from Bhowali, you will find this cafe for sure.)
Must try items – Momos, Maggi, Black Coffee, Cold Coffee, and Pasta. Don’t order cheese prantha, though you can order others.
Mode of Transportation
The best mode of transportation there is to rent a scooter or a bike. For us, the caretaker handled it but you can find it everywhere quite easily. It fits in your budget as general costing is ₹600-₹800/day and in peak time ₹1000-₹1200/day. Ask the lender that you want to keep it for nights as well.
Ps: Outside vehicles are generally not allowed in Nainital, better you book a cab for the last two days.
Back To The Trip
After breakfast, continue your ride through mystical views of Uttarakhand. It was approximately 45 kms from our stay but the roads were enchanting enough for us to feel tired. Plus with two wheelers, it is easy to ditch the traffic and take freedom to park to the nearest spot.
On the way, you can also try visiting the tea garden, near Pahadi Cafe only.
After we reached there, it took us almost an hour to pay a visit to Mahadev and sit there enjoying the views. The morning visit to this divine place is always preferred.
There is no dress code so you can wear whatever you want to.
After this temple, there is a waterfall near it with an almost 2 kms one way trek. But it is wiser to ask locals if the waterfall is running or dry due to weather conditions before you plan to visit there.
Golu Devta Temple
On your way back, do not miss a visit to Golu Devta Temple (the bell temple). You can also visit it in the morning. As the name suggests, this temple is full of various size bells hung there. Such an enchanting place resting Indian goddesses and Kaal Bhairav with breathtaking views and music of bells uplifting your mood.
Later, that day we came back to our cottage, relaxed for a bit, changed into fresh clothes for our dinner plan. There are three best options for cafe-style meal in Bhowali:
| Cafe | Why | Budget | Must Try |
| iHeart Cafe (opposite let me dine) | This place has cute goody vibes but is a little offbeat these days due to many glamorous cafes surrounding it. But if you want authentic Italian food to taste, this place is a heaven for you. Excellent staff | A little expensive in that area. A 10-inch pizza costs almost ₹800-₹1000 | Food: Pizzas, Momos, fries (great fries are really hard to find on mountains), and brownie (eggless). Beverage: Coffee |
| Let Me Dine | With live music, and outdoor and indoor seating options, this place is a perfect fit for a fun and romantic dinner. Though I felt that the staff was a little rude due to the popularity of this place, the overall experience was good. | ₹1000‐1100 for two for overall food. | Food: Pizza (of course) and Pasta. Beverage: Cocktails (There is an option to bring your own booze) |
| Zobby’s Kitchen | This place is amazing for Indian food and desserts but you can also ditch this option as you will find this place on Mall Road in Nainital as well. | ₹1000-₹1500 for two | Food: Main course Indian and Chinese. Never order starters here, they are the true mood spoilers. Desserts: Yes, please. |
Day 2: Visit Kainchi Dham, Saattal and Bhimtal
Start the next day with breakfast in bed and buckle up for your visit to the most hyped place, the Kainchi Dham. Honestly, the hype is real. The place is serene, divine, and offers a great clarity in perspective. It was only 20 minutes from our cottage, but four wheeler always counts +/- 1 hour as there can be traffic jams anytime.
Avoid early morning visits as there will be a lot of crowd at that time, especially on Tuesday and weekends. We opted for Tuesday 10-11 am where it took us only 30 minutes to complete our visit without any crowded queues. Also, there is a misconception about offerings there. The real devotees know that nothing can be offered to Neeb Karoli Baba. He was known to give things away not to accept offerings. You can skip buying unnecessary stuff from there.
Few tips for Kainchi Dham, Nainital
- No need to carry a scarf or dupatta, there is no dress code. Wear whatever you are comfortable with.
- On the way out, there is a shop right next to it before the shoe stand. They serve a beverage there that is actually divine. Must try. But that shop is always too crowded.
- Food near the temple sucks and is too overpriced.
Enjoy a light snack on the way back with a lot of roadside Maggi and momos food trucks.
On the way back, we took a break in our cottage for a while and changed into something sporty as the next destination is all about water sports. My recommendation is to wear shorts or baggy jeans here. Otherwise, you can also carry an extra pair.
Saattal and Bhimtal: Which One is Better
On your way to Saattal, you will find various taals like Garur Taal, Sita Taal, etc and enchanting trails. My recommendation is to visit Saattal first and enjoy water sports like Kayaking, river crossing, swimming, and zip lining. Most of these cost within ₹500-₹700 each per person.
Saattal is famous for its serenity and biodiversity. With less tourists coming to this place, it offers you a peaceful retreat even in the peak season. The views are panoramic and way better as compared to boating in Nainital and Bhimtal. This place is most often taken as an off-beat location and is rarely visited by families.
Next, enjoy a short trail to Garur taal or any other taal of your choice, they all are similar. These trails offer a surreal walk amidst the woods refreshing your soul and challenging your physics sometimes.
Bhimtal
After this take the road to Bhimtal. It is a most visited tourist point. Hence, expecting a crowd here is normal. To rush things, I recommend you take a boat from a private spot, not the main boating spot, to beat the rush. There are various types of boats but after Saattal, who would want to go in a paddling boat. So, we took one to drop and pick us from Aquarium Cafe. This place is situated in the middle of the lake offering great food and of course the mesmerising views.
Ps: this place doesn’t have a washroom and is open till 7 pm only. Moreover, tickets to visit this place (except food) costs ₹150 per person. So, plan accordingly.
The boat ride to the cafe cost us almost ₹1,250 (peak season price). One can bargain for better pricing, there is nothing fixed.
Other than this one can also enjoy paragliding in Bhimtal depending upon its availability. But do not plan for a hot balloon ride as that is not a ride and the view there was worse than our bnb’s view.
On our way back, we chose to try authentic Indian Kadhi chawal from a street vendor near Grit’s. I am still not over it. There are many food options nearby Bhimtal lake as well.
Ultimately, according to me if you are taking a solo trip, trip with friends or as a couple, Saattal is better for you than Bhimtal. Divide your time in ¾ and ¼ for both the locations.
Day 3: Naina Devi Temple, Naina Peak, Mall Road, Nainital Zoo, and spend leisure day
Start the next day with booking a cab to visit Nainital. Start with visiting Naina Devi Temple. Wear modest outfit and carry one with you for the mall road. Enjoy the divine vibes there, stroll through the market near the temple. It is comparatively cheaper than Mall Road. Buy scented candles, scarfs, etc. Next, visit Naina devi peak cable car point. Take a cable car and reach the peak to enjoy the view. This point is very close to the temple so you do not need your cab to commute.
After you enjoy the breathtaking views of Nainital, take a stroll on the mall road. Enjoy food at Zobby’s kitchen or Cafe Lakeside. Generally, it is quite hard to find a spot in Cafe Lakeside during peak season. And buy souvenirs from Mall Road.
Enjoy the zoo as the last destination of the day. Or you can also add Eco Cave Garden, if you are planning to stay nearby.
Day 4: Eco Cave Garden, Himalaya Darshan Point, Lover’s Point & Tiffin Top Horse Riding, Waterfall and leave for Delhi
Another day, another cab and let us see the adventurous side of Nainital. Start with Eco Cave Garden, this is a challenging adventure park where there are multiple caves you need to walk, jump, climb, and crawl through. Enjoy the workout and keep your essentials like phone, camera, sunglasses, etc. packed in a very small bag you carry. Do not try to click too many pictures as that can be dangerous because the caves are too slippery.
Next, visit the Himalaya Darshan point. It is a trek of almost 3 kms one way from where you can see Himalayan peak depending on the weather. But the hike is really great for refreshing your mind as well.
Further, you can enjoy a horse ride to the tiffin top enjoying the lover’s point (also known as suicide point) on the way. Carry less to the destination and leave most of your packages in the cab only. Generally, they charge around ₹700-₹900 per person for a 2 hour trek to Tiffin top including the other view points.
Next, there are a few other points for photography, adventure, and water sports. If you have time, visit those. Otherwise, water sports here are basically for kids and nothing as compared to Saattal.
Prioritize visiting the waterfall as the closing time for all these destinations is 5 pm in summer.
Nainital: Things to Pack
In the upcoming article, there is a perfect packing list for everyone for Uttarakhand, especially the places mentioned in here.
Enjoy your trip to the surreal mountains.
When life gives you an opportunity, be the Bunny who used to grab it.
Very informative and insightful. Thank you for sharing such a detailed itinerary and recommendations.